Friday, July 27, 2007

Another quickie!

We are in Nairobi right now, and tonight we take the train to Mombasa. YEAH TRAIN!!! I am so excited about it.

We got on the bus to Nairobi at 8 am yesterday, and arrived here at 6:30 pm. It's just under 400 km. It was a horrible time, especially as the roads here are so bad. As in, a lot of the time cars drive on the scrub next to the road, since it's less potholed.

I'm not sure when we'll get back online, as we'll be in Mombasa for two days, then we'll fly to Dar es Salaam, stay there for a couple days, ferry to Zanzibar, stay in Stone Town for two days, then up north on the beaches for a couple days, then ferry back to Dar. We will then bus to Arushu on the border, spend a day there, then travel to Nairobi, sight seeing here until our plane leaves on the 15th.

Or something like that. You know what they say about the best laid plans.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOM!!!!

Lots of love,
Courtney

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Quick Note

We are alive, I promise.


We recently realized that our time in Kakamega ends this coming Wednesday, so we have been busier than ever this last little while. Its been insane.

We have decided to travel for over two weeks at the end of the vacation, so I am uber-psyched. We're going to do Mombasa and Zanzibar for sure, and we're still figuring out what else.

We realized this at the point that we had less than two weeks of work left! We were freaking out because almost NOTHING was finished, from business cards to the website. However, as always happens, we've been able to get through most of it.

We are both sun BURNT yesterday. We went swimming with the kids again and since we had no trouble last week we figured sunscreen wouldn't be necessary. WRONG. We had to talk aspirin just to sleep, and now, for the first time ever, we are wearing our hats. We look ridiculous, but this has got to go away before we travel, since it's 8 hours on a bus to Nairobi, and then 12 hours on a train to Mombasa.

Got to run, I will try to write again when we know what our actual plans are!
Lots of love,
Courtney

Monday, July 9, 2007

Zoom in on his face... see how happy he is?!?!




This weekend we spent the coldest two hours I can remember in a pool teaching Ephy’s three kids to swim. Now, if Neil and I were cold, just imagine how bad it was for these guys. Their whole bodies were shaking and shivering. Not conducive to floating, that’s for sure.

It went as well as I expected, seeing as none of them have ever even been in the water before. First we taught blowing bubbles, which was not too successful at first, and I think they were convinced that we were just trying to make them choke. We must learn how to say “blow out, not in!” in Kiswahili before the next lesson.

Next time I’m going to drag them all to the deeper part, where they can’t put their hands down and touch the bottom to stop them from sinking while I’m trying to get them to float. They are, understandably, wary of the deeper bit. And wary of me, as I let them drop down a couple of times by mistake. I have to give it to them though; they’re troopers, keeping at it.

It was so cold. So, so, so, so cold. That’s probably what they’re going to remember the most. But they told Ephy that they had a great time, so I’m hoping we go again. When it’s sunny.

The best part was when I did a couple of laps to warm up, and came back to the three kids imitating me, kind of kick and swinging one arm around, while pulling themselves along the bottom with the other. It was really amusing.

I spent Sunday kinda ill, just vaguely nauseous and sleepy. I only have myself to blame though, as I went off chicken this past week, having seen one fall asleep in someone’s arms. How cute is that?!? Too cute to eat, I said. Anyway, after a week of not much protein, and having forgotten my multivitamins at work on Wednesday, I assume my unhappiness resulted from that. So I ate chicken last night, and I feel a different kind of unhappy. So much for Kenya resolving my not eating meat!

Other than that, Friday was spent with Neil happily going through papers and reports at KAMADEP, another NGO here, finding information for his research project. I tried to help at first, and then realized I was mostly just in the way, and read a book. He was able to bust out some facts and figures when one of out American friends here asked about birth rates and such. It was cool.

And speaking of him busting out stuff, his Kiswahili is coming along. He can have whole little conversations with pleasantries, and is able to translate an astounding number of words. He amused people by counting things in Kiswahili the other day. I am most proud.

Well, we’re at work again, and Neil has gone of to KAMADEP to transfer files from a hard drive, since CABDA’s one and only monitor has blown something, and is dead. I should go do something useful too!

Talk to you later, and I hope that all is well back home!

Lots of love,
Courtney

p.s.: More photos of the cutest kid ever to tide you over! (And by that I mean the little guy in blue, not Neil.)

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Hiccups and haircuts



I don’t know about you guys, but I cannot believe that it’s July already. Time has flown by, and I’m not sure where it’s gone. I can only imagine that the second half of this trip will go even faster than the first.



We had another lazy and relaxed weekend, which was lovely. After 5 days of work, being able to sit for hours on a veranda playing checkers and reading, feeling the warm breeze flowing towards us from the trees, it was a most welcome break.



Florence, the Nairobi University student, has a new girl with her, just a young thing fresh out of high school, and they came and sat with us for a while, and we had a nice chat about eating vegetarian here. Florence also gave Neil a Kiswahili lesson, which was fun to listen to.



The only thing that spoiled the lovely day was a very large rat or mouse that climbed up the wall beside us, freaking me right out.



Speaking if the guest house, we were shown a lovely bunch of open air huts in a garden behind a building. Some people take supper there, but I would feel guilty getting the staff to carry my supper down the hill. It would be a lovely place for drinks though… maybe next weekend.



Health wise, we’re both fine and healthy, although I’m bruising like a peach (ie: very easily), making the bumpy rides out to the field work quite problematic. Neil’s only complaint was a case of hiccups that lasted, on and off, from Sunday noon to Monday morning. I’ve never seen hiccups wake anyone up before, but Neil managed it.



We also cut Neil’s hair, which was interesting, as there are no electrical plugs in the bathroom, and he had to trust me not to bald him. Luckily, it all worked out, and he looks very handsome, if I do say so myself.





Monday was good, work and then home, trying to get there before the rainstorm started, which we managed. Although, Neil had to go beg our neighbour for some onions, as we were out, and he really wanted latkes (yes, we make them here!), and as he walked back he was slowly followed by the rain, which was moving in, and getting harder. How neat is that?





And this morning there were 20 kids in the breakfast room, from all over the US, part of a group called "Global Roots". Not sure what they were about. Neil mentioned that he hadn't felt this awkward in a room full of white people for a while, but I asked when the last time he was in a room with 20 9th graders. He conceded it was in 9th grade. Anyway, hopefully they won't be to noisy or annoying!

Sorry we haven't been able to get more photos up. Honestly, the internet here is pretty off and on. I'll keep adding one to each blog though!!! Here's Neil with a really cute kid during one of the interviews he's doing.



Well, more later! Have a great week!
Lots of love,


Courtney

Friday, June 29, 2007

Equator sun will burn even when hidden...


Hello everyone!

I wanted to thank you guys for your great coincidence stories, it really is a crazy world!

(Also, we have two more students that arrived, randomly with no place else to stay, from U of T and OCAD in Toronto. It's like an Ontario university reunion!!!)


Just a brief update, as we have actually been quite busy this week. We have started interviewing people for Neil's research project, talking to them about their lives and how the loan that we provided will be helping them, and what they want to do with it.

Having to go through the translator, and a whole wack of questions, it does get a bit tiring, but the information we're getting is interesting, and hopefully will be really useful to Neil.

What else have we learned this week? That even if it's cloudy, we're still on the equator, and we'll still burn. Neil crashed with a small case of heat stroke on Tuesday, and I have a tan, which I didn't have on Monday.

We've also been working on the CABDA website, business cards, and brochure. It's exactly what I would have been doing at work in Toronto, so the days in the field are quite a nice mix-up.

Tomorrow is halfway done the trip, which is crazy to think about. I'm wondering if we should take a coupe days to ourselves to do some real tourist things, to break it up a bit. I'll let you know what we decide.

Tomorrow is also Neil's dad's birthday! HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!!! I hope that the move doesn't mean you can't celebrate. Eat some ice cream and think of me. I miss good ice cream. :)


I'll write again soon, with actual good information, I promise!!!

Lots of love,

Courtney


ps: I've included a photo of me working, to prove that I'm not just ignoring you all!

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Random Coincidence

The strangest thing happened a couple of days ago at breakfast.

Three white girls were sitting at a table, and one got up to walk to the fruit, and had to go past our table. She had on a University of Guelph shirt, and I was so surprised that I stopped her to ask if it was the U of G in Ontario.

It was.

The three of them are second year veterinary students there, and are here to help the thesis of a University of Nairobi student.

For those of you that don't know, Guelph is a university maybe an hour from Western, where Neil and I go, and it is where my brother is going, and where Neil's mother went.

I was flabbergasted. I kept asking Neil "How many people in the world? 10 Billion? What are the odds?"

I mean, we are in the boonies here, a small town in Western Kenya described by our travel guide as having "no real reason to stay here." The sheer coincidence of the meeting is nuts.

They, however, seemed less impressed. Give them a month of seeing almost no white people, let alone fellow western Ontario university students, and then we'll see how they feel!

Lots of love,
Courtney

Monday, June 18, 2007

A weeks worth of babbling

Sorry it’s been a week since I last wrote, but it’s been busy. Sort of. Let’s work backwards.

Saturday
Neil, Ephy, her three children, and I went to Kisumu. When we went last month to buy a bunch of stationary supplies, something happened to one of the bags. We went to go ask if they still had it or if things were put back in stock, but eventually Ephy just accused the staff of theft. Needless to say it was an infuriating and fruitless trip. The man tried to convince us the problem was with our staff. He promised to start an investigation, and I asked for his card and name, assuming that if I call him every couple of days to inquire, eventually something might actually get done. I doubt it.

After this we went to the museum. It had a snake pit (most of them surprising small, all local, and all totally venomous, of course. I am rethinking plans to visit the Kakamega Forest, to be sure.), a crocodile enclosure with two large but sleepy crocodiles (I had to reassure Ephy that they could not jump high enough to get out of the cage.), a fresh water aquarium (that looked like a pet store, as Neil pointed out), a room with exhibits about the history of the people of Western Kenya that was interesting but not hugely specific (for example, they have used tools ‘since the earliest time’.), and a traditional Lua homestead, a small village looking thing, that we were all too hungry to visit, which is a shame, but I figure we see pretty close to the real thing every time we go out in the field.

We went to lunch at Mon Ami, a restaurant behind the huge supermarket that we go to for our food, as it is the only one with imported stuff that almost tastes like home. The restaurant had really great iced coffee, which was such a treat. Who could imagine missing Tim Horton’s? I’m surprised, but when you can’t get a cup of coffee to save your life, you start to miss things like that. Don’t even get me started on Starbucks. Mmmm….. frapachinos… mmmm…

Anyway, we had a good lunch there, and Ephy had a meeting right after, so Neil and I looked after the kids for an hour and a bit. (We’re turning into regular baby sitters out here.) First we went into the store to look at bathing suits (as these are the kids I’m going to be teaching to swim soon), and of course they also got distracted by the toys. It was so nice at that age, to be enthralled by something as simple as a little doll. Now you have to spend $100 on something shiny to make me happy.

We also took the kids to a (play-per-use!) playground, and they drove some cars around a track (and off the track a couple of times in the youngest one’s case), and played on swings and slides and everything. I found it ridiculously hot, but they were having a great time. Their mom called to let us know she was back, and we headed in the buy the suits for the kids, and to get groceries for Neil and I. It’s kind of expensive, since when we go we’re looking for the stuff we can’t get here in Kakamega, like sliced deli meat and cheese, butter, bacon, and that sort of thing. I figure if we only go once or twice a month, and then spend almost nothing here, getting vegetables from the market is dirt cheap, then we shouldn’t have any troubles.

After that we went home, watched ‘Erin Brokovich’ on the TV, had some potato and leek soup (from a mix, no blenders here), and went to bed. Neil’s allergies have been giving him a hard time, so I gave him to Benadryl, and he was out like a light. I envied him, as the people below us argued well into the night, and then started again around 7 am. When the rooster outside our window joined in I put in my ear plugs.

Friday, or the day we played games and realized I am 20% psychic.
I was sick again, so Neil and I took the day off. I figured it was something I ate, and just stayed in bed or the bathroom all day. Again Neil took awesome care of me, getting me ginger ale when I asked for it, and making sure I ate. There was a wicked thunderstorm that knocked out the power for over twelve hours, meaning we had to clean out our fridge on Saturday, but that was ok because it meant we could fit all the new food in.

After the rain stopped Neil went to the restaurant to drink tea and work on the computer by candle light, and I stayed in bed reading with a flashlight. That was pretty much the most productive point of the day.

Thursday
Went to work, did work things, walked home, and watched some of Season One ‘Prison Break’, which Neil bought at a DVD and tape stand, then went to bed. It was a simple day.

Wednesday, or “Play That Funky Music White Boy” night.
The American family next door left on Thursday, so on Wednesday night they invited us to dinner to thank us for watching their kids, and to a dance part at their place. I honestly don’t think there is anything I can write that will do justice to this party. The mom made chocolate chip cookies, which was awesome and Neil ate a whole bunch, since they’ve become a novelty to us (we have a stove top, but no oven, so we can’t do it ourselves, and they mostly sell biscuits here, not cookies, which is a shame.), and then they put on oldies music, and the dancing began. Well, not for the little guy, he was sleepy and just lay on the couch, only popping up to eat cookies as they were brought fresh to the coffee table.

Honestly, just watching the three adults and the daughter dance, Neil and I were exhausted. And, not going to lie, it was pretty surreal, standing in this apartment with almost strangers, eating cookies, and watching them rock out to Cyndi Lopper. And I mean ‘rock out’. There was much singing along, flailing of the arms and legs, and throwing of oneself to the floor. Think of every action possible for the song “I Will Survive”….. Picturing it? Times it by ten, and that was what we were watching. I spent most of the evening with my mouth dropped open.
We finally begged off after 11, and went right to bed, so very tired, and needing to get up for work early.

Tuesday
On Tuesday we had an unusual offer from a British Evangelical preacher. He and his wife were going back to England for two months, and offered to let us stay in their house. They took us right to see it, and it was quite nice, a big kitchen, living room, and dining room, and three bedrooms. It was located in Kelfinco Estates, which, he explained to us in a low voice, is where all the Asians live, all the shop keepers, (who are actually Indian, but for some reason have always been referred to as Asian in Kenya), and so the Estate is where all the money is. Very safe, he assured us, very nice neighborhood. And it was; it was a little subdivision, with a bunch of guards, closed gates, and high fences. Even in the ‘safe’ areas here you know you’re in a different, very violent and dangerous, country.

The man was annoying. There is no other way to put it. He had us sit down in the living room and kept talking, or as he put it, “sharing with us”. He was also a bit racist. He talked at length about the corruption at every level, and how the “Kenyans aren’t the brightest people.” Did I mention that his wife, who was now in the kitchen making him dinner, was born and raised in Kakamega? It was discouraging to learn though, that despite his being here for as long as he has, people still prefer “what is in his pocket, not what’s in his heart.” I had hoped that the endless asking for money and assuming that we can pay three times something’s worth, simply because we are white, would stop once people had gotten used to us. Apparently it never stops.

Anyway, they were willing to let us have the place for what they pay, which is less than our guesthouse. Neil was very taken with the offer; mostly I think he wanted couches that he fits it, which do not exist at the guesthouse. I suggested we not even think about it until the next day.
We discussed it over breakfast, and I listed my reasons why I didn’t want to do it. He listed his reasons why he wanted to, and then suggested we simply rent both. I listed my reasons why I didn’t want to do that either. So, we stopped talking about it until lunch, which was about the same. And then at dinner with the American family he got the men to back him up, and one of them did, but one of them sided with me. So, eventually, Neil conceded, and we’re still at the guest house.

(And if you’re wondering why I didn’t want to do it, it basically came down to the inconvenience of moving, the fact that I feel safe here, that the people know us and help us, that we get a good free breakfast every morning, that I don’t have to do any of the cleaning, and that we get new sheets on the beds every Monday night, none of which would happen in the house. I have the rest of my life to clean; I would like to take advantage of this time when I don’t have to. Plus, they give us toilet paper here, and cost of the amount we use when we’re ill probably amounts to the difference in the cost between the two places.)

Monday
I don’t remember Monday… I assume it was boring. I designed a bunch of business cards to show to Ephy for the marketing campaign we’re working on for CABDA… and that might actually be it…

Well, there you have it, a sum up of my week. I hope everyone at home is doing well!
Lots of love,
Courtney